Thursday, October 2, 2014

Sugarite Canyon

Blog Post Text:
Making our way North and decending from Johnsons Mesa on Hwy 64 we came to the fork leading to Sugarite Canyon SP. As you enter the mountainous areas, the state parks are far more numerous. The ride was less than 100 miles, oustanding as far as Windy was concerned. It was like a dream entering the canyon. High cliffs on both sides showed craggy faces. Tawny and red boulders and light colored dusty dirt, displaying the dry conditions. But there was evidence of fire. I was told that in 2011 the blaze tore through the canyon pushed by winds of 40 miles per hour. This wind saved many of the pines. So amisdst the black scorched trees, were still many ponderosa pines standing. It was thrilling to be traveling into the mountains again, at last!
 Dry camping was in the area known as the Soda Pocket campground. From the paved road sporting the full-hookup sites wound a rough dirt road with a washboard surface worn from accelerating vehicles climbing the grade. Two miles into the wood and up the side of the canyon was Soda Pocket. I found a site near the bathrooms overlooking the canyon. Dry, barren, rocky, but rough and burly this land is. The Inuit native Alaskans speak of respecting the mountains so that one must not speak of them, they being so much greater than humans it is inappropriate to talk about. I tried to imagine the forces at work within these mountains. Were they even paying attention to man's intervention? I learned more later.
 We camped the night using the generator for an hour or so to charge one of the weaker deep-cycle marine batteries on board. My hope was that I could use this weaker battery to power the lights and water pump while I was here. I met the camp host and he introduced me to Pat, the assistant ranger and second in command. She told me about the camphosting opportunities there in Spring 2015 and suggested that I visit the New Mexico State Park website to register. She said that her park would be closing in 6 days on October 1, but I should still stop into the Visitor Center to meet the ranger in the morning. Windy and I took a much deserved rest. Camping at the side of the road the night before had been taxing, and we both were asleep early.
 In the morning, I went through my routine and got out the door to hike down to the Visitor Center. I allowed half an hour. After spending most of that time looking for the trailhead, I decided that meeting the ranger timely was second to getting a good hike in. I'd only be a half-hour late, I thought. An hour and fifteen minutes later I arrived at the Visitor Center. The hike was 2.5 miles, and not very evident on the map. It was a good hike though. Parts of the trail were grassy level grades, and then the rocky steep downhills wound around in switchbacks through a mixture of scorched and green woods. Two stream crossings brought me eventually to the trail beside the river and the side trails to the coal mine preservation areas. Mac, the ranger was polite and efficient. He said that he would remember my name come the spring when he would be looking for camphosts. He filled me in on the incoming cold weather and along with Pat, suggested my Florida blood would be well suited to hosting in southern New Mexico for the winter. Hiking back up the canyon trail I came upon some bear scat. Fresh bear scat full of the little berries the old black bear had been eating. I didn't just come across some, but many piles as I worked my way back along the river. These mounds were definetly not there on my way down. I started watching the woods, and checking the ground for good sized rocks to fight with. Would I be any match for a couple hundred pounds of pre-hibernation eating, bear-clawed, bear-fanged monster? Probably not. Would I play dead, or run, or back away slowly? I was wishing for my Buck knife. But the piles got smaller and ended as I crossed the river and climbed back up to Soda Pocket. A five mile hike, with a significant elevation change...yes, those 5 mile walks each day back in Tampa had paid off. I was still in some small sense, a Hiker.
 We spent two nights here. I made a couple of trips into the nearby city of Raton. I found the Tourist Information Center and the wifi connection. I applied for a camphost position. I got all my other communications in order, (excepting the voice contact with my high school chum David) and did some shopping. On the third day, after brief discussion, I convinced Windy that the terrain on down Hwy 64 would yield far more beautiful parks and we loaded up and took off.
 It was a fairly quick hour and a half to Cimarron Canyon SP. There was the long flat drive that the bus handled very well. I'd decided to lean out the carburetors another quarter of turn to adjust to the elevation change, and she seemed to be running cool and calm. As we approached the canyon, I got the surge of delight in seeing the mountains. No big mountains, but mountains and hills and forest. It seemed we'd been in the dry and harsh lands for too long. Passing through the town of Cimarron, I dutifully obeyed the speed limit. It's a speed trap patrolled constantly. The park is 13 miles from the town. I found the campground and paid my fees. I met the cordial camphosts and got comfortable again. It was crowded on Saturday, but I found a site that seemed a good fit. Windy is struggling with a cold, as I seem to be. But we plan to stay here for at least a week, and if all goes well, I'll be in one spot long enough to get my mail sent to me, and not spend any more on fuel. The hiking seems to be great here, and although today was only a laundry and communications day, I built a fire and am satisfied that I'm in a good spot.
 Again, today seems to be mostly logistics and mechanical upgrades. I'm struggling with the transition from the full hook-up sites to the primitive camping. My coach battery is charging properly and I had to rely on candle power for lighting, and washing with bottled water. I asked another camper about his familarity with automotive electrics and he suggest I ask Todd, a mechanic in the town of Ute Creek two miles away. I explained to Todd my situation and he gave me a shove in the right direction. The battery is charging now, and hopefully won't need to be replaced. No more major repair expenses, please!
















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